Features

Effective & Sustainable

A new year, yes, but many of the same issues will dominate the personal care space, according to Evonik executives.

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By: TOM BRANNA

Editor

Is this the year that sustainability takes a leap forward in the collective conscience of US consumers, retailers and their suppliers? Paul Washlock, VP-personal care, Evonik North America, certainly thinks so.

“In 2015, sustainability will be key,” he insisted. The real question, he added, is whether or not suppliers understand the issue and can meet the needs of their customers and the consumers.

“Can we stay on top of this issue and take the lead on this issue?” he asked.

Washlock and the Evonik team are confident that they offer the right solutions for today’s personal care product formulators. On the sustainability front, last year, Evonik began offering customers materials such as emulsifiers and consistency enhancers that have been certified in accordance with the standard of the Roundtable on Sustainable Palm Oil (RSPO). The company has been an ordinary member of the RSPO since 2010. The aim of this multi-stakeholder association is to promote the production and use of sustainable palm oil.

Before that, in 2013, Evonik achieved cosmetic GMP (ISO 22716) confirmation for its North American sites. ISO 22716 refers to the manufacturing process of cosmetics as well as raw materials. It includes guidelines for quality-related aspects of a product. This confirmation guarantees that Evonik focuses on the appropriate principles and methods during production, controlling, storage and distribution. The company’s European sites were accredited in 2012.

“Our customers know that they are getting quality if the supplier follows ISO,” explained Washlock.

Novel Products

Customers are also getting some innovative ideas when they source materials from Evonik as well. For example, at last year’s annual meeting of the Society of Cosmetic Chemists, the company presented posters on a key ingredient for body washes and shampoos (Tego Sulfoccinate DO 75), a raw material for men’s hair care formulations (Sphingony) and a new selection matrix called Senses that helps formulators choose emollients for developing desirable sensory attributes such as skin feel, desired performance benefits and even environmental benefits.

Sulfoccinate DO 75 is an anionic surfactant that imparts stability with a dense foam and is said to be good for damaged hair, as it is suitable for body washes and shampoos with high oil content (up to 50%) and good foaming effect Furthermore, the material is compatible with anionic, amphoteric and nonionic surfactants. Sulfoccinate DO 75 is PEG-free and is easy to formulate with even without heat, according to Anna Howe, applied technology manager, North America, consumer specialties, personal care, Evonik Industries.

“It is good for critically-damaged hair. We achieved a top score on dry hair without a silicone,” she told Happi. “We have been sharing the news with customers and getting great feedback. It has a good sustainability profile.”

Sphingony sphingolipids are the naturally occurring, skin-identical molecule called Sphinganine. Particularly with androgenic alopecia, Sphingony targets hair loss by balancing the hair life cycle, strengthening the hair follicle and improving scalp health—a critical element to meet the growing needs of male consumers.

“We see momentum in men’s care,” explained Howe.

The material is COSMOS-certified and Ecocert-approved.

“In 2015, we have a lot of growth opportunities due to our innovative products,” noted Washlock. “Formulators are looking at new things and we have 300 products to offer them.”

And among those hundreds of products, there are plenty of sustainable, effective solutions for cosmetic chemists.

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